What can I say about the sport and activity I love most. I came here to Australia mainly because it is surf mecca of the world. This should be at the top of the list but unfortunately I haven’t gotten to surf as much as I thought I would. Crazy how I’ve traveled across the world to score some of the best surf and I find myself exploring other things. There is more to life than surf, right? Often I get asked, “Why have you come to Australia? Are you on holiday, working or studying here?” It’s really funny because people look at me with utter confusion when I say I’ve come to Australia to surf…and the instant reply is “Your in the wrong place!?” Yes, I know most surfers live and surf the Gold Coast, but I don’t think people realize just an hour and a half away from here (like a trip to the OBX) is Bells Beach! I’ve seen some crowded days but even if it were, there are so many spots down in Torquay to surf with a handful of your mates in the water that it trumps the overcrowded beaches in Bondi or Manly (FYI – it’s still not the Gold Coast). With regret I went to this place on the Gold Coast called “Surfer’s Paradise” which was a complete joke of the name. Zero surf! I wish I had done more research because a famous break such as Snappers is located not to far from there. Though to be honest, I don’t think my ability to surf could compete with the caliber of guys that do surf there. And after surfing spots like Bondi and Manly, I can say the waves here are ALOT more intense in power than good ole VB. Even on what Aussie’s consider small days, I often felt the fear like the day I got my butt whooped trying to surf Playa Hermosa, Costa Rica during a good swell. Nevertheless, I still pushed myself to get out there and just paddle out. When I finally did make it past the break, I’d give myself a pat on the back and sit for a few sets before I attempted for a wave. Needless to say, I really needed to be in tip top shape.
However it’s okay if you’re a beginner to intermediate surfer like myself, there’s a spot to be found in OZ for any skill level. It doesn’t need to be the biggest and baddest wave as long as it was fun. It did not take long for me to discover a treasure. When I first put my eyes on this spot I felt like Bruce Brown in The Endless Summer, finding that never-ending wave. As luck would have it, I found this secret spot while I was there to see the Little Penguins. Now I’d tell you the name of the spot but I’d have to kill ya ;P Any surfer knows the value of a good secret spot. You’ll just have to come back with me to OZ so I can show you…wink wink. I didn’t get to surf it the first time, but I promised I’d be back to surf that spot. I’ve done it only twice now (none of which is what one would consider a good day or a decent day of surf) except that it was the days I had the longest rides of my life! And if you know VB you don’t get to score very long rides, the waves often close out or just too weak to push ya. I was satisfied to my heart’s content. And sometimes for the soul, it’s enough to get in and get wet.
But before I got to surf this spot though, I had the opportunity to go to the west coast of Australia. My buddy Broughski and I went to surf just south of Perth in an area called Margaret River. We camped out for about 4 days, exploring the great west. I thought I wouldn’t make it because this was my third time ever camping in my life…LOL…yes I know, crazy, but it was fun. We went to different spots during the day, cooked dinner on the open fire and chilled out til the fire slowly died. Next time I’d definitely spoil myself and sleep on an air mattress and go when it was a bit warmer. It was pretty chilly at the time of year we went, but I guess I’d rather have the cold then a hot sticky mosquito infested summer night. The west coast not only had beautiful scenery and a chillax lifestyle, but the surf was pretty amazing! We went surfing a few days before the swell came in which was great because the next day was just out of this world. I don’t know how those guys and ladies were paddling out when this swell came in. Bombs were going off and you could see the spray miles away and even hear the rolling thunder of the waves. Insane! Broughski and I were hot to trot to pack all our things to watch the show. The parking lot was almost full when we arrived at 10am…everyone came to watch! I could have watched all day, but we had a long drive home. The show was a great way to end the trip.
Although I have not surfed as much as I’d like, I’m glad to have experienced the spots I did get to surf. I surfed long fun waves with barely a soul, I didn’t have an encounter with box jellyfish nor the sharks that are known for inhabiting these beautiful waters and I didn’t get injured. I also had an opportunity to attend the oldest surf competition in the world (next to VB’s ECSC) at this year’s 50th Rip Curl’s Bell’s Beach Pro. I saw the women’s heats, the freestyle competition with the likes of Kelly Slater, Occy, and Steph Gilmore to name a few and the ringing of the infamous Bell Trophy. Lastly, on the way home after the competition I got to meet some of my favorite surfer’s in Surf City where they were having autograph signings. The best part is knowing there’s always my next go round in OZ to surf these spots again ;D
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