6. Surf

What can I say about the sport and activity I love most. I came here to Australia mainly because it is surf mecca of the world. This should be at the top of the list but unfortunately I haven’t gotten to surf as much as I thought I would. Crazy how I’ve traveled across the world to score some of the best surf and I find myself exploring other things. There is more to life than surf, right? Often I get asked, “Why have you come to Australia? Are you on holiday, working or studying here?” It’s really funny because people look at me with utter confusion when I say I’ve come to Australia to surf…and the instant reply is “Your in the wrong place!?” Yes, I know most surfers live and surf the Gold Coast, but I don’t think people realize just an hour and a half away from here (like a trip to the OBX) is Bells Beach! I’ve seen some crowded days but even if it were, there are so many spots down in Torquay to surf with a handful of your mates in the water that it trumps the overcrowded beaches in Bondi or Manly (FYI – it’s still not the Gold Coast). With regret I went to this place on the Gold Coast called “Surfer’s Paradise” which was a complete joke of the name. Zero surf! I wish I had done more research because a famous break such as Snappers is located not to far from there. Though to be honest, I don’t think my ability to surf could compete with the caliber of guys that do surf there. And after surfing spots like Bondi and Manly, I can say the waves here are ALOT more intense in power than good ole VB. Even on what Aussie’s consider small days, I often felt the fear like the day I got my butt whooped trying to surf Playa Hermosa, Costa Rica during a good swell. Nevertheless, I still pushed myself to get out there and just paddle out. When I finally did make it past the break, I’d give myself a pat on the back and sit for a few sets before I attempted for a wave. Needless to say, I really needed to be in tip top shape.

However it’s okay if you’re a beginner to intermediate surfer like myself, there’s a spot to be found in OZ for any skill level. It doesn’t need to be the biggest and baddest wave as long as it was fun. It did not take long for me to discover a treasure. When I first put my eyes on this spot I felt like Bruce Brown in The Endless Summer, finding that never-ending wave. As luck would have it, I found this secret spot while I was there to see the Little Penguins. Now I’d tell you the name of the spot but I’d have to kill ya ;P Any surfer knows the value of a good secret spot. You’ll just have to come back with me to OZ so I can show you…wink wink. I didn’t get to surf it the first time, but I promised I’d be back to surf that spot. I’ve done it only twice now (none of which is what one would consider a good day or a decent day of surf) except that it was the days I had the longest rides of my life! And if you know VB you don’t get to score very long rides, the waves often close out or just too weak to push ya. I was satisfied to my heart’s content. And sometimes for the soul, it’s enough to get in and get wet.

But before I got to surf this spot though, I had the opportunity to go to the west coast of Australia. My buddy Broughski and I went to surf just south of Perth in an area called Margaret River. We camped out for about 4 days, exploring the great west. I thought I wouldn’t make it because this was my third time ever camping in my life…LOL…yes I know, crazy, but it was fun. We went to different spots during the day, cooked dinner on the open fire and chilled out til the fire slowly died. Next time I’d definitely spoil myself and sleep on an air mattress and go when it was a bit warmer. It was pretty chilly at the time of year we went, but I guess I’d rather have the cold then a hot sticky mosquito infested summer night. The west coast not only had beautiful scenery and a chillax lifestyle, but the surf was pretty amazing! We went surfing a few days before the swell came in which was great because the next day was just out of this world. I don’t know how those guys and ladies were paddling out when this swell came in. Bombs were going off and you could see the spray miles away and even hear the rolling thunder of the waves. Insane! Broughski and I were hot to trot to pack all our things to watch the show. The parking lot was almost full when we arrived at 10am…everyone came to watch! I could have watched all day, but we had a long drive home. The show was a great way to end the trip.

Although I have not surfed as much as I’d like, I’m glad to have experienced the spots I did get to surf. I surfed long fun waves with barely a soul, I didn’t have an encounter with box jellyfish nor the sharks that are known for inhabiting these beautiful waters and I didn’t get injured. I also had an opportunity to attend the oldest surf competition in the world (next to VB’s ECSC) at this year’s 50^th Rip Curl’s Bell’s Beach Pro. I saw the women’s heats, the freestyle competition with the likes of Kelly Slater, Occy, and Steph Gilmore to name a few and the ringing of the infamous Bell Trophy. Lastly, on the way home after the competition I got to meet some of my favorite surfer’s in Surf City where they were having autograph signings. The best part is knowing there’s always my next go round in OZ to surf these spots again ;D

Blurr

So the Internet is not too reliable here at the hostel hence the delay of this post, but also these past few days have been a blur.  Every day pretty much planned with new activities and festivities with meeting new friends and saying goodbye as soon as I meet them.  So here goes nothing…

DAY 4, THU AUG 12 – After an evening of shenanigans, it was time to leave.  Showed the boys up by out dancing them and beating them in pool. Some of the boys wanted me to jump in their pockets cuz I was so tiny and they lifted me high in the air as bench press weight...it was a good night!  Some wanted to go to other bars while a few wanted to go home.  I was a bit tired from walking around the city all day and decided that I’d go ahead and walk home with my new UK buddy Mike.  In the wee hours of the morning…it was freezing and although I would have jumped at the chance of riding the metro…they close at 12am.  So we decided to walk home instead of taking a taxi.  Bad idea!  It took forever to walk home…by the time we got there we didn’t realize that both of us forgot our swipe cards to get through the gates.  Brilliant!  But wait there was a bell to ring…we rang it several times.  No answer, which was no surprise as it was past 2am in the morning.  I thought…wait, there’s a number we can call if we get stuck outside.  Well good thought…if only one of us had it. Lol.  So we waited outside for the other half of the group to arrive, pushing the button several times more every half hour or so but two hours later from arriving at the hostel, still not a soul!  I began to worry because most of the bars in Sydney closed at 2am or 3am.  After 3:30 hit we thought they probably took a taxi home and beat us to the punch.  Oh Crap!  Well we waited some more and this stranger on the street, Travis from the UK, began to have a conversation with us.  He had to deal with his good mate fighting with his girlfriend and decided he couldn’t take it anymore and left the place he was staying.  He was wandering through the streets with his luggage, hoping he’d find another hostel or hotel to stay at, but was having no luck.  After speaking with him we thought we go to another bar down the street and have another round, but Mike and I were too anxious and did not want to miss coming across one of the pack.  So we all chatted some more and Travis was kind enough to lend me his sweatshirt b/c I was so cold.  Then around 4am we thought we would never see them, but low and behold Dan the Man would come waltzing down the street a few moments later to let us in.  I gave him the biggest hug and said thank you…you’re me hero!  Come to find out the next morning, the other boys were just hanging out in the kitchen and if we shouted loud enough could have gotten in.  I tried to give Travis his sweatshirt back but he said I ought to keep it bc I looked better in it.  I laughed thinking, this thing is half the size of me, but it was comfortable so I kept it as souvenir from the crazy night.  We all said our goodbyes and good nights and went to our separate rooms.

Crazy Boys...Terry and Brad

The boys (Mike, Dan, Terry) making fun of my shoe size

DAY 5, FRI AUG 13 - Through this whole ordeal you’d think I’d just pass out and wake up late in the afternoon but no, I had to deal with loud snoring and women farting after each other.  I was like, REALLY?  Did I just hear that!?  The other nights I had put on my earplugs so I wouldn’t have to deal with any of these crazy sounds from the first night but I was too tired from the night before to even think of it.  Well I finally passed out and woke up at 9am!  If you guys couldn’t do the math that is barely 5 hours of sleep.  I tried to go back to sleep but of course once I wake up I can’t really ever go back to sleep.  I was going to go running that morning but decided that it wasn’t the greatest idea…it was cold and chilly which was not an appetizing recipe after only 5 hours of sleep.  So I made breakfast and slowly the rest of the crew walked through the kitchen to tell stories from the night before.  Crazy I tell ya, but good times for sure.

It was a sad morning bc Dan the Man, aka Aussie rugby player, was leaving to travel overseas with his UK buddy Terry, to play rugby in England.  Bye to another set of cuties.  Hehehehe.  Well no one was up so I hogged the TV in the common room and plopped down to see if I could fall asleep watching Devil Wears Prada.  No luck ☹ But after a few hours of lazing around I met a new girl Vanessa from Canada and we decided to go shoe shopping.  She wanted UGGS and I apparently needed cute flats or heels.  I was a bit surprised that Sydney or Australia as a whole are very particular about shoes when you go out to bars and clubs.  Traveling here I tried to pack as light as possible and pack the essentials, so I only brought a pair of tennis shoes for running/hiking, my converses cuz they were small, light and matched anything, my warm tan moccasin looking shoes/slippers and my favorite pair of flip flops…the black reefs with yellow and pink details.   I thought its Australia, surferville, very chill and laid back.  The girls would probably wear cute sundresses, shorts/cute tank, and a cute pair of sandals.  Wrong!  The girls get all jazzed up in snazzy short dresses (some of them slutty if you ask me, but whatever) and many in the tallest heels I’ve ever seen or at least the most painful looking ones.  The guys also get dressed to kill in collared shirts/jackets with loafers or dress shoes.  I mean these people really get all dressed up.  It’s also quite chilly here, getting down to the 40s or cooler in the evening and the women wear these small outfits like it’s 70 degrees.  I’ll be in search for a city or town that is more laid back.

DAY 6, SAT AUG 14 – It was supposed to be a warmer day here in Sydney so I thought…time to surf.  I convinced a few of my new friends to join me in a day of surf at Manly Beach.  Everyone was pretty much a beginner so I thought this should be an interesting session to say the least.  Getting there was almost a whole day ordeal…taking the metro, walking a few blocks and finally catching a half hour ride of the ferry to Manly Beach.  Man was the ferry ride amazing.  Seeing much of the coast of Australia, the little coves, sail boats docked and also sailing their own courses, seaside cliff homes, and the beautiful water…all was gorgeous and worth the ferry ride.  Although the temperatures were warmer…it certainly didn’t feel like it.  It’s crazy how it’s a little warm in the sun but soo freezing in the shadows…feels like a 10 degree difference if you ask me.  Anyway after arriving in Manly we walked for a block or so and went to rent our gear.  Pretty reasonably priced if you ask me.  $5 = suit and $10/hr, $15 for 2 or $40/day.  After everyone geared up it was time to give the beginners a quick surf lesson.  1.  Waves come in sets of 3, 3rd usually the best, 2.  Position yourself on the board so 6” of the board is at least above the surface of the water, 3.  Practice the “The Pop”, 4.  Wait until the set is over and then 5.  Get in the water and paddle your heart out!  Surf was about knee to waist high so perfect for a beginner’s day…or so for a while.  Once the wind and the tide got on it, it was pretty rough to try to paddle back out again, but by then the sun was going down, the chill of the winds creeping through the tiniest hole of our suits, and exhaustion beginning to hit.  Time to get out and go home for the day.  We all took a much needed nap and had Thai for dinner.  Surprisingly we had the energy to go out.  A whole group was going out to some bar that was supposedly “walking distance.”   Yea right!  Well with my better judgment, my new friend Stephany n I decided to head back to the hostel.   We really didn’t feel like walking to a gay club anymore or chance a $15 cover.  So the long walk home was interesting to say the least.  We saw a man dressed in a red and white bright glittery get up, two of our hostel acquaintances make out, beautiful pointillism art in a window, slutty dressed women stumbling down the street, listened to loud music blasting from all the bars, but finally we reached the hostel.  Thank God bc we were ready for bed.  Tomorrow would be another day for a group activity with my new friends and I was excited.

The Paddle out to sea

My students for the day :)